1A. Alkylphenol (AP) and Alkylphenol Ethoxylates (APEOs): including all isomers

Potential Uses
APEOs can be used as or found in: detergents, scouring agents, spinning oils, wetting agents, softeners, emulsifier/dispersing agents for dyes and printing formulations, impregnating agents, de-gumming agents / auxiliaries for silk production, dyes and pigment preparations, polyester padding and down/feather fillings.

1B. Anti-microbials and Biocides

Potential Uses
These chemicals have antimicrobial properties, which can be used to preserve formulations, preserve articles to which they are intentionally applied, or provide customers with benefits like odour control or insect repellency.

1C. Chlorinated Paraffins

Potential Uses
These are occasionally used as flame retardants and PVC additives in certain industries. These are also used as fat liquoring agents in leather processing.

1D. Chlorobenzenes and Chlorotoluenes

Potential Uses
Chlorobenzenes and chlorotoluenes (chlorinated aromatic hydrocarbons) can be used as carriers in the dyeing process of polyester or wool/polyester fibres. They can also be used as solvents. Additionally, they can be found in colourants and specialty chemicals as an impurity.

1E. Chlorophenols

Potential Uses
Chlorophenols are polychlorinated compounds used as preservatives or pesticides. Pentachlorophenol (PCP) and tetrachlorophenol (TeCP) have been used in the past to prevent mould when storing/ transporting, raw hides and leather. They are now regulated and should not be used.

Note on Testing
If monochlorophenols or dichlorophenols are identified in a sample prepared for evaluation of Chlorophenols using KOH extraction, the results should be confirmed in accordance with Annex C of DIN-50009.

1F. Dyes - Allergenic Disperse Dyes

Potential Uses
Disperse dyes are a class of water- insoluble dyes that penetrate the fibre system of synthetic or manufactured fibres and are held in place by physical forces without forming chemical bonds. Disperse dyes are used in synthetic fibre dyeing (e.g. polyester, acetate, polyamide). Restricted disperse dyes are suspected of causing allergic reactions and should no longer be used for dyeing of textiles.

1G. Dyes – Carcinogenic or Equivalent Concern

Potential Uses
Most of these substances are regulated and should no longer be used for dyeing of textiles and leather.
For some dyes, it is not possible to directly detect the dye and it must be done by indirect methods as explained in the DIN standard.

1H. Flame Retardants

Potential Uses
Flame retardant chemicals are deliberately applied to meet legal and contractual flammability standards.
The use of the flame retardants listed below, or any halogenated flame retardant, is not permitted (for fashion, sport or outdoor clothing and apparel and home textiles).
It should be noted that there may be certain critical (technical textile) end uses where legally or contractually mandated standards may only be achieved using these substances (e.g. military, medical, protective clothing, transportation). The formulations will always be deemed ZDHC MRSL NON-CONFORMANT and it is intended that the ZDHC Supplier Platform will appraise the end uses of any flame retardants within an inventory.

1I. Glycols / Glycol Ethers

Potential Uses
In apparel and footwear, glycol ethers / glycol esters have a wide range of uses including as solvents for finishing/cleaning, printing agents and dissolving and diluting fats, oils and adhesives (e.g. in degreasing or cleaning operations).

1J. Halogenated Solvents

Potential Uses
In apparel and footwear, halogenated solvents are used as finishing/ cleaning and printing agents, for dissolving/ diluting fats, oils and adhesives (e.g. in degreasing or cleaning operations).
Formulations containing any of the listed solvents above the published limits are NON CONFORMANT with the ZDHC MRSL. Despite the advancement of water-based systems, there are a small number of solvent-based systems that remain the most prevalent in the industry and ZDHC recognises that it will take time to phase these out completely.
ZDHC guidance is to avoid the deliberate use of listed solvents wherever possible, with a transition to water-based formulations being preferable, and to ensure that worker exposure and emissions are minimised.
It is intended that the ZDHC Supplier Platform will assess the implementation of best practices for emission and exposure control as well as the usage of water-based formulations at a facility.
Note: There are some solvent-based technologies that are generally regarded as having lower overall environmental impacts than aqueous alternatives (e.g. solvent scouring) and every specific scenario will be judged on its merits through the ZDHC Supplier Platform.

1K. Organic Solvents

Potential Uses
In apparel and footwear, VOCs / solvents are used in processes such as coatings and glues/adhesives.
Formulations containing any of the listed solvents above the published limits are NON CONFORMANT with the ZDHC MRSL. Despite the advancement of water-based systems, there are a small number of solvent-based systems that remain the most prevalent in the industry and ZDHC recognises that it will take time to phase these out completely.
ZDHC guidance is to avoid the deliberate use of listed solvents wherever possible, with a transition to water-based formulations being preferable, and to ensure that worker exposure and emissions are minimised.
It is intended that the ZDHC Supplier Platform will assess the implementation of best practices for emission and exposure control as well as the usage of water-based formulations at a facility.
Note: There are some solvent-based technologies that are generally regarded as having lower overall environmental impacts than aqueous alternatives (e.g. solvent scouring) and every specific scenario will be judged in its merits through the ZDHC Supplier Platform.

1L. Organotin Compounds

Potential Uses
Organotins are a class of chemicals combining tin and organics such as butyl and phenyl groups. Organotins are predominantly found in the environment as antifoulants in marine paints, but they can also be used as biocides (e.g. antibacterials), catalysts in plastic and glue production and heat stabilisers in plastics/rubber. In textiles and apparel, organotins are associated with plastics/rubber, inks, paints, metallic glitter, polyurethane products and heat transfer material.

1M. Other/Miscellaneous Chemicals

These are other chemicals / substances / process with a usage ban.

1N. Perfluorinated and Polyfluorinated Chemicals (PFAS)

Potential uses
Formulations containing PFAS (Per and Polyfluorinated alkylated substances) are often used for water or stain repellency.
The use of any formulation based on, or including PFAS, including those listed below, is not permitted (for fashion, sport or outdoor clothing and apparel and home textiles).
It should be noted that there may be certain critical (technical textile) end uses where legally or contractually mandated standards may only be achieved using these substances (e.g. military, medical, protective clothing, transportation). The formulations will always be deemed ZDHC MRSL NON-CONFORMANT and it is intended that the ZDHC Supplier Platform will appraise the end uses of any PFAS within an inventory.

Note on PFAS and testing: There are thousands of individual chemicals that are categorised as PFAS but only a few are actually useful in terms of oil / water repellency and their use is always accompanied by the presence of common, known 'marker' chemicals such as those listed below. ZDHC approved MRSL certifiers will check for the deliberate use of PFAS or high levels of contamination of PFAS by testing for the marker chemicals listed below and ,at their discretion, use a screening test for total fluorine (quantification limit: 50mg/kg) followed by confirmatory testing for specific series e.g. the other PFAS mentioned in the PFAS ZDHC Guidance Sheet. ZDHC approved MRSL certifier reserves the right to request or carry out test for any specific PFAS chemical using appropriate test method to check MRSL conformance.

1O. Phthalates – including all other esters of ortho-phthalic acid

Potential Uses
Esters of ortho-phthalic acid (phthalates) are a class of organic compounds commonly added to plastics to increase flexibility. They sometimes are used to facilitate moulding of plastic by decreasing its melting temperature.
Phthalates can be found in:

• Flexible plastic components (e.g. PVC)


• Print pastes


• Adhesives


• Plastic buttons


• Plastic sleevings


• Polymeric coatings
  All esters of ortho-phthallic acid are restricted including those listed below

1P. Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAHs)

Potential Uses
Oil containing PAHs are added to rubber and plastics as a softener or extender and may be found in rubber, plastics, lacquers, and coatings. Within the footwear producing industry, PAHs are often found in the outsoles of footwear and in printing pastes for screen prints. PAHs can be present as impurities in carbon black dyestuffs.

1Q. Restricted Aromatic Amines (Cleavable from Azo-colourants)

Potential Uses
Azo dyes and pigments are colourants that incorporate one or several azo groups (-N=N-) bound with aromatic compounds. Thousands of azo dyes exist, but only those that degrade to form the listed cleavable amines are restricted. Azo dyes that release these amines are regulated and should no longer be used for dyeing of textiles or leather.
The four substances listed below highlighted with an asterisk are salts.

1R. Total Heavy Metals

The formulation limits for As, Cd, Hg, Pb, and Cr (VI) in the list below apply to all types of formulation. When a limit for pigments is specific and differs from the general limit, it is denoted by brackets. The formulation limits for Sb, Cr, Ba, Se, Sn, Ni, Cu, Co and Ag only apply to dye and/or pigment formulations. Any differences between limits for dyes and pigments are indicated in the formulation limit column. The limits for the heavy metals do not apply to colourants containing a listed metal as an inherent compositional part (e.g. metal-complex colourants, the double salts of certain cationic colourants or extenders like barium sulfate). Wet processors must be aware of the metal limits in the ZDHC wastewater guidelines as well as the brand RSL limits with regard to extractable metals from dyed materials when using any colourant that has listed metals as an inherent compositional part. Where RSL and/or wastewater issues are observed, wet processors should discuss this with supply chain partners.

Potential Uses
Although typically associated with leather tanning, chromium VI also may be used in the dyeing of wool (after chroming process).

1S. UV Absorbers

Potential Uses
To make the formulations stable to the effects of UV light or sunlight, UV absorbers are used.

2A. Bisphenols

2B. Ethoxylated Tallow Amine

2C. Formaldehyde

Potential Uses
Formaldehyde can be used or present in many types of formulations such as fixatives, resins and binders.

2D. Phenol

Potential Uses
Phenol is not deliberately used in textiles or footwear but trace amounts of phenol can be found in many chemical formulations.

2E. Potassium Permanganate

Potential Uses
Potassium Permanganate is primarily used for localised bleaching of denim using a spraying process.

2F. Solvents

Potential Uses
There are many uses of solvents including cleaning, coatings, prints.
Many solvents are restricted in the main list of the ZDHC MRSL. It is strongly advised that suppliers actively seek safer alternatives to the solvents listed in the candidate list as these may be placed on the main list in future versions of the ZDHC MRSL.

2G. Total Heavy Metals

Potential Uses
In addition to being used in dyes and pigments, metals are used as raw material for trims and other components.

3A. Dyes - Carcinogenic or Equivalent Concern

Potential Uses
Most of these substances are regulated and should no longer be used for the dyeing of textiles.

3B. Dyes - Navy Blue Colourant

Potential Uses
Navy Blue Colourant is regulated and should no longer be used for the dyeing of textiles.

3C. Other/Miscellaneous chemicals

Potential Uses
Dye

3D. Solvents

Potential Uses
In the past, it was used to make several types of polymers, resins and textiles, but its use is now highly restricted.